Crimp vs open grip. The open hand or 3 finger drag, half crimp, and full crimp.

Crimp vs open grip. An open grip on sloping holds works in a similar way to your shoe when smearing. Full crimp vs half crimp vs completely open hand. May 19, 2009 · That study isn't relevant at all, there are far more recent studies that directly compare crimp Vs open hand grip in climbers. In the long term, the open grip puts less strain on the joints and tendons than crimping. Scott Goodwin offers a tried and true technique. May 30, 2007 · The half-crimp will build strength for open-handing and full-crimping (to a limited degree) whereas the other grips are exclusive to themselves. to/3J6fNdDClimbing Shoes: https://amzn. The terms "open grip" and "closed grip" are often used when discussing rock climbing. Using your pinkie engages more muscles in your forearm and back, so this grip type uses less energy and is great for long endurance climbs. I recognised that I default to crimping on everything except completely sloping holds. I feel like the first one is better because it’s one crimp but the second is better because it’s covering more surface and has a better flare. It reduces the strain on individual finger tendons compared to crimping. This grip places less strain on your tendons, so it should be your go-to grip unless you need the power of a full crimp. Full Crimp Jede dieser Griffvarianten fühlt sich anders an und im Eifer des Gefechtes benutzen Boulderer:innen die Begriffe oftmals etwas salopp. If that's true, then yes, I'd prefer to train the correct half crimp grip. The key is testing each leader. The elongation has to go somewhere. Jan 4, 2024 · The most common grip is the open crimp, which you should use most often when climbing. Correct placement reduces the risk of injury. Once I realised this, I tried to use an open-hand grip as much as I could, but my brain seemed to be hard-wired to crimp. Most improperly crimped connections will out test knots as well. And I understand the last image is a full crimp since the The other thing is you get maybe an inch extra height on a crimp compared with open-handed which can occasionally make a difference - but conversely you get an inch extra reach if you can open-hand a hold Jun 23, 2018 · The open hand grip, while not a power hand move like the crimp, works best on sloping edges where you get lots of skin-to-rock friction. Jan 29, 2019 · Or do people tend to focus on just one grip type? I'm aware an open hand grip is thought to be of less risk of injury, however I understand training other types of crimp/grip can improve strength and be more applicable for non-open hand crimps when climbing hard. to/2tCoPetClimbing Tape: https://amzn. The full lock bends your DIP joint and therefore allows you to get closer to the wall, and you can pull harder for the hold and reach higher than with any other grip. The Nicopress crimps held. Surely you have hit a hold open-handed and found yourself stuck. Oct 4, 2018 · The black double barrel crimp was made for wire, but can also be used for mono or fluorocarbon. Full Crimp (Closed) The full-crimp is a powerful and aggressive grip position, that allows a climber to lock down on even the smallest of edges. Closing off that grip provides more options to apply power. Cheers I did some searching on the sub, and if anything it seems most people are stronger in open or half crimp than full crimp. Open-Hand Grip (or Open Hand) Description: The open-hand grip involves keeping your fingers relatively flat or slightly bent, distributing the force across the entire surface of your fingers and palm. Oct 21, 2012 · what are your ideas, opinions, and equipment about knots v crimps in 100/130? do you use a crimper or crimp system that CONSISTENTLY applies the same pressure to the sleeve? or do you use a knot like the erwin, dbl sd ( i cant tie a trilene) at the terminal or hook end? lets hear it! May 21, 2024 · Going to start crimping leaders for July trip, and have never tried it beforewhat size crimps go with what test mono/ fluorocarbon and what size holes on Jan 9, 2017 · When you crimp the sleeve the sleeve will elongate. Transfer to real rock The three grip positions: 1. The downside to favoring the half crimp (and the full crimp) over an open-hand grip is that the crimp position puts more pressure on your pulleys and tendons. But the third image is what I’m confused on. Robustness of physical structures in hand/forearm 3. Strong, veteran climbers can also train monos. What are you crimping, and where are you crimping?2. Feb 9, 2020 · Now, it’s important to know that without the change in the angle (full crimp) but with the thumb over index finger (closed hand crimp) there is a 17% increase in grip strength while not significantly increasing the risk of injury (Quaine). He claims that you should rather train the half crimp, as the half crimp will make your chisel grip stronger as well, but the chisel grip will not make your half crimp grip stronger. Are you new to crimping? Not sure what the difference is between each crimping shape? Don’t worry—we've got you covered! In this blog post, we will review the differences between each crimping tool and help you choose the right one for your needs. Before you pick what type of crimper, you need to answer the following: 1. A rule of thumb is to do two-thirds of sets half-crimped and a third of sets dragging, although this should change subject to goals and weaknesses. Sep 27, 2024 · The open-hand crimp is used on slightly easier terrain when you want to conserve energy. Jan 4, 2024 · More specifically, crimping in climbing is one of many gripping techniques climbers use to hold especially small crimps. Training on a hangboard is a very static load and environment, so if done with proper form (and adequate warm up) really it is safer than climbing where you're moving dynamically between holds. We distinguish between three grip techniques: full crimp half crimp open grip The safest but most technically demanding grip is the open grip. I just made a couple of leaders yesterday and I used the small sized opening. The open grip is often used on sloping holds. Mar 13, 2021 · crimp: jinkai g line: 200lb diamond fluorocarbon windon first is a clean single crimp with minimal flare, second is a first crimp closest to the hook and then another overlapped crimp. You can crimp down to the #1 double barrel copper crimps for single strand and titanium wire. Sep 21, 2022 · This places incredible pressure on your pulleys and can lead to injury. As a result, it’s easy to injure yourself with the half crimp if you overuse it. Full crimping is a much more active gripping style than half crimping. May 1, 2024 · Crimp Climbing 101 covers the essential techniques and training tips for using crimps. The open hand or 3 finger drag, half crimp, and full crimp. THE FOLLOWING PAGES ILLUSTRATE THE DOS AND DON’TS OF CRIMPING, AND HIGHLIGHT THE ADVANTAGES OF USING MATCHED CABLE, TERMINAL AND TOOLING FROM THE EXTENSIVE TE CONNECTIVITY PRODUCT RANGE. From the three types of crimps, when to use them, and how to improve your crimp strength. Oct 15, 2014 · The 17BA for crimping everything under the B1 1/32". e. t May 29, 2014 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. The line failed at just under 300lbs. Nov 9, 2022 · Open or closed positions? It is thought that open grip positions are lower risk, but this type of training can limit some movement patterns and reduce maximal strength potential across the entire grip type range. Crimping is commonly broken into three different grip types based on the angle of your fingers and the location of your thumbs called full, half and open crimp. The closed-crimp grip does so without increasing strain to the middle and ring fingers, which are the most susceptible to pulley injuries, although it does increase strain on the index finger. It's cuz you're weak! Half crimp is a great training grip because it's mechanically disadvantaged. Mar 16, 2005 · I've seen a chisel go under many names: 4 finger open, open, crimp, natural grip and some people even seem to think it's a half crimp (which it isn't). Unfortunately they're (as far as I know) not published on the web so I can't provide a link. I was wondering if anyone could give me some advice regarding the 3 above grip types (full crimp, half crimp, open hand), and most importantly, how they differentiate in terms of stressing the tendons/pulleys in the hand/fingers. Jun 3, 2025 · If a climber turns out not to be stronger in crimp than in open hand position - as they might have assumed - the open hand grip, which is easier on the pulleys, should be used whenever possible. Small and super strong. However, the crimp grip is associated with higher pulley forces, increasing the risk of finger injuries. This article explores the differences between these two types of crimps. I'm strongest at full crimp and weaker as the grip opens up, with 3fd being my weakest by far. Thanks in advance for any advice! Full video: https://youtu. The B4 crimp on 1. Open grip: Your fingertips are on the edge and the rest of your hand is draped onto the wall. May 11, 2015 · Question for the rigging experts- I am going to start crimping some of my big bait/chunk/salami rigs instead of using knots. It takes disproportionately more effort to maintain that position under the same load. This is why most climbers use either a half crimp or full crimp when climbing. , crimp vs. Oct 4, 2018 · The black double barrel crimp was made for wire, but can also be used for mono or fluorocarbon. Jun 3, 2025 · Abstract Many climbers believe that they are stronger in crimp finger position than in open hand position. 38. Closed Crimp vs. Open hand puts very little strain on the pulleys, but is a little tricker to master. 3mm mono. Is it worth training my half crimp strength specifically? Sep 11, 2023 · Open Hand vs. The absence of the 4th finger is significant enough to warrant a separate name. After reading this I looked properly for the first time at how I was gripping. Leaving the mono tight around the eye of the hook places tremendous strain on the mono. Because of the smaller angle, the body needs to be positioned more carefully. Sep 1, 2018 · below (my first crimp) 200lb Jinkai mono (1. Your hand remains open, not crimped. Use chalk on your fingers to increase friction and practice open hand grips to get stronger. Half Crimp vs. The most open position—often referred to as a “drag”—is extremely useful for resting on large positive holds where the high contact surface with the hold allows for frictional assistance. I would suggest spending significantly more effort on the half crimp, or any other very Mar 27, 2019 · The drag/open grip is useful but less effective as an 'all-round' training grip than the half-crimp. It involves climbers wrapping the thumb over the index fingers and curling the fingers into a smaller joint angle. In addition to the half-crimp and open-crimp grips, select a few others such as two-finger pocket “inside pair”, “middle pair”, and “outside pair”. Dec 19, 2015 · Ibid, p. The least damaging and straining method of holding a crimp is by open or drag grip. 33mm OD) stainless steel SS Junkai chaffing spring (1. From what i've gathered it's basicly 4 fingers on, index is dragging, middle finger is half crimping, ring finger is sort of half crimping, pinky is dragging. Some grip types are more “active” than others. open grip), differentiating which is more painful, and identifying the primary site of pain or discomfort. I nearly always open hand the crap out of smaller holds. Sep 22, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Full crimp is the strongest grip, but puts a lot of pressure on the A2, A3 and A4 pulleys, whereas the half crimp puts less pressure on A2 but still some on A4 and A3. Four finger half crimp 2. Mechanics: This grip allows for a broader contact area with the hold. Is the third one also a half crimp or not since the second joint is higher than the ends of the fingers. This holding technique is entirely different from full and half crimps as the length of your fingers on the hold do not form a bend in relation to the tips of your fingers resting on the edge of the hold, instead, your fingertips are the only thing on the top of Jun 3, 2025 · If a climber turns out not to be stronger in crimp than in open hand position - as they might have assumed -the open hand grip, which is easier on the pulleys, should be used whenever possible. My open hand has always been significantly stronger than my crimp grip, and although I exclusively hangboard crimped (and have had really good gains over the years) my open hand has always stayed ahead by about the same margin. With 55# and higher I use the larger opening. Open crimp is a great tool to have, and a great performance grip position. Three finger drag 3. Using the thumb to lock the index finger onto a hold is effective, but this grip places high loads on finger joints and pulleys We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Therefore, this study aimed to determine how accurate climbers could assess their maximal finger flexor strength in half-crimp and open hand positions. Sep 11, 2023 · 2. Do you like open Drag is usually used to describe a 3 finger open hand grip. 45mm mono is a slick connection. , open and closed barrels. In other words, the half-crimp is virtually a one-stop shop for grip training. 4mm ID) - i pulled like hell to test the hardware photo below shows how the spring reformed a bit (i pulled the loop up a little snug before i crimped it) i'm trying to figure HOW the spring may cut groove (or sink) into the mono to weaken the line Sep 11, 2017 · Using crimps on heavy leader is a quick way to make a secure connection for offshore fishing. I understand that the first image is an open grip and according to some people the second one is a half crimp since the first two joints are in line and the hand is bent at 90 degrees. Because it's easier to maintain under load. As a beginner, stick to half crimps and open crimps, which means leaving your thumb off the hold and creating a 90-degree angle with your hand (half crimp) or fully opening it, hanging by your pads (open crimp). I am using a nicopress crimping tool and nicopress crimps on mono and flouro from 100-200lbs. What are some training routines to train half crimps? My problem is every time I half crimp a hold, my hand slowly opens up into an open-handed crimp. Types of Crimp Grips When talking about grip positions, “crimp” is actually an umbrella term. be/u8DO5oyyekEMy Climbing/Workout Gear: https://amzn. Properly crimped lines will always out test perfect knots. Creating the dreaded crotch break. Each one of them has unique characteristics and use cases. I don’t train the full crimp just for injury prevention, but the other two are important to train. Should I be using some Jan 8, 2024 · Curious what crimp die setting your using for the crimps you listed above. g. Jan 31, 2022 · (Photo: JOHN COEFIELD) HALF VS FULL CRIMPING Half crimp training alone cannot fully prepare you to crimp with all your might on a tiny edge. This is exactly why people perform the closed/full crimp position, increased strength. If your half crimp is your weaker grip I'd say definitely train it on the hangboard, having more even numbers across grip types will likely mean less injury when you are climbing. Someone with more of a . We won't send you spam. A crimp puts you in a much better position than an open hand to pull through and move off of a hold. Damit wir im Folgenden aber Klarheit gegenüber den Techniken schaffen, findest du hier die offizielle Definition. When to Use Jan 5, 2025 · Are there mechanical advantages to the crimp vs frictional skin advantages to dragging/open handing ? Is it beter to specifically train to correct anamolous grip strength differences or to focus on the strong/natural grip (if uninjured) ? And most importantly which grip is the coolest? 8) Specificity 2. If a climber turns out not to be stronger in crimp than in open hand position - as they might have assumed - the open hand grip, which is easier on the pulleys, should be used whenever Nov 10, 2022 · Here, the half crimp and full crimp will typically result in the highest performances. The requested information is condensed into post 12 above. In regards to safety I'm pretty new to climbing, I've been at it for a few months, mostly bouldering in the V3-4 neighbourhood of difficulty. My thinking is aluminum crimps are better for plastic lines. Apr 5, 2018 · Hey all, I have been climbing about 6 years and have only recently realized that I hardly every close or half crimp smaller holds. 28-1. Looking to master the different climbing finger grips and techniques rock climbers use to improve their technique? Here are the top7 techniques and injury preventions. SOLDERLESS CLOSED BARREL TERMINATION TRAINING MANUAL THIS GUIDE HAS BEEN PRODUCED TO HELP YOU ACHIEVE A PROPERLY CRIMPED TERMINAL OR SPLICE EVERY TIME. Crimp terminals typically come in two types, i. Capt. By using your pinky, you use most of the muscles in your forearm and back. The aluminum oval crimps are only for Mono or fluorocarbon and shape the plastic line inside the crimp differently. Pick three to seven different grip types to train, and do one to three sets per grip. We just tested some commercial grade 1. Crimp encompasses three different grip types– open hand or half crimp, closed crimp, and full crimp. Learn the differences and when each type of grip is used. As discussed in chapter 4, full crimping is mechanically stronger than open-handing or half crimping when on small holds. On the flip side, most climbers will find closed positions transfer well to many climbing movement styles and rock types. Jul 3, 2025 · Strength measurement using a device such as a crane scale in different grip positions (e. Unsubscribe at any time. bjc ibdz ycrtxe ysmsii ldjxb zumwj cryqjg jnkb hmns btdn