Top rope belay reddit. On several climbs where I was belaying and one where I was on the wall, the belay and climber ropes had twisted. I didn't think about the rope aspect yet. I use a sling (8mm dyneema) girth hitched through the microtraxion and around my neck to keep slack from building up. My first impression of the glasses is that they seem inherently unsafe, or at the very least less safe than looking directly at your climber. I'd advise you to work on learning the standard method (PBUS) instead, just because it's less tiring. We can probably learn just as much from the mistakes of the average climber as the expertise of a pro climber :) Peronally, I use a combination of grigri and petzl asap for lead rope solo, and either a jumar and microtraxion or a jumar and grigri for The belayer does not climb while belaying. Better for lead belay. My local gym requires PBUS (pull brake under slide) technique for top rope belaying, but they're totally fine with tunnel method for lead belaying. If you find yourself I have been strictly top rope so far and have gotten up to 5. These articles explain how to belay using a top rope system and how to climb safely at an indoor climbing wall. Lead climbing is simple, it's the belaying that actually is the dangerous/tough part. It functions just like a GriGri, but it has a panic handle. Same as a grigri for toprope belaying and belaying from above. But if you're doing normal top rope climbing, your belayer has a belay device, and that's it, no backup. See full list on blog. Just did my first top rope solo, would love to get some feedback on the system I used. The channel Yann Camus Blissclimbing has some videos on the shunt and how it has failed in real life, as well as some alternative devices to use. After having my belay partners cancel for the 4th time in a row, I am really starting to think of picking up a solo setup for low-grade solo TR. Any rope 10mm and thinner should be fine in both devices. I started splitting my time between top rope and bouldering at my gym. Maybe try using just a regular ATC for belaying on top rope? I weighed about the same as your BF and my partners weighed around 105 and 115 and they were able to belay me just fine and dandy. Thanks for any info! Hey guys, I recently signed up for a top rope / auto belay carnival style comp. My question is, how can I improve my I find it odd that pulling slack through a loosish brake hand on a gri gri is totally acceptable for some instructors while lead belaying, but they will freak out about sliding the brake hand up the rope while top roping. Thoughts? Edit: HOLY SHIT YOU GUYS!! One thing I learned from a local Joshua Tree legend is that top roping through aluminum makes your rope dirty with aluminum filings. Belayer with top rope) lead climbing and belaying and multiple falls from different hights for 75€ (students) / 100 € everyone else It is mandatory to know how to belay dynamic with your body and that you learned to fall from above the last clip It’s super convenient to use at bomber bolted belays with a redirect when you’re swinging leads instead of switching from guide mode to direct belay. I taught my girlfriend to top rope and lead belay from scratch in one day outside. 12 votes, 17 comments. We discussed, watched videos and built a mock system at home and practiced. That’s why bouldering is more approachable to beginners. Whenever I read threads about top rope solo, everyone agrees on using one device to self-belay, and some kind of backup in case your belay device malfunctions. If I tie myself in and tie backup knots would this be a safe enough setup? I read about belay glasses here a couple months ago, and I've since started seeing people use them with greater frequency at my local gym. An anchor refers to the whole system — the anchor points, the protection gear, runners, carabiners and climbing rope. If you clip in with a carabiner, you should always use the belay loop, and never leg and waist loops. If it's the gym rope that's a shitty old static line and you outweigh your climber or match them in weight, there should be none if you value the climbers body. We have 90 minutes to climb as many routes as possible, and collect… I would probably use one ascender as primary and just tie knots as you ascend for backup. Backup can be a second rope, knots, a second device, etc. I tied a length of 8mm nylon cord around my tie in points to extend my primary device (Microtraxion) above my secondary (GriGri) which is attached to my belay loop. For a gym, especially top-rope, new climbers tying the wrong knot or not finishing it up might be an even bigger safety concern though. weighmyrack. I've seen fall arrest devices for roofers etc. The anchor, which is a technical climbing term for a secure attachment of the rope to the rock, usually at the top of the route. This is nice because with the GriGri, the only time I'm really worried about a new climber making a mistake is during lowering. Setting up a secure top rope anchor is vital. Plus I want to dip my toes in some lead climbing this season. I just led a bunch of 5. That being said, I have had no problems with someone even 100 lbs lighter than me belaying on top rope. It’s the first time I’ve ever belayed someone with such disparity between my weight and theirs. On top rope. Feedback on what stupid crap I did appreciated! NB: If you get to the top of the belay and you have to yank the webbing to make it retract fully, tell the staff. I'm quite light so I have to admit it is possible to belay someone double my weight but it does put strain on my body and well in a way frustrating from the side that I do much more "work" than my partners with belaying. However, habits like these lead to pretty terrible belay technique that increases the chances of fucking up when you’re not using a grigri. We give a few tips for effective belaying, assembling the rope and belay device, and other considerations to give your climbing partner the best possible belay. 8 - 5. I have used the grigri for self belay on top rope a bunch and it seems fine. Edit: also forgot to mention Also in the UK, you need to do a safety test (tie in, catch a top rope fall on an ATC) to belay unsupervised at my gym. Overly Enthusiastic Belaying? Anyone have thoughts on belaying that might be helping too much with a climb? I've been climbing (mostly indoor top rope) for about two months, but I don't have a steady belay partner or group so I'm mostly on autobelay. They had a bag of sand at a gym I went to you could link to your belt. Appalachian single pitch w top access via hiking. The ATC Guide can be tricky lead belaying with thicker ropes, but so does the GriGri which will lock up. I've also seen shunts for self-belaying however I'd prefer a top-rope mechanism. I also have a climbing partner that uses a Mammut Smart. It’ll be my main focus/goal for this outdoor season. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. I also projected, fell on (a few times) and sent one of my hardest routes to date that day. This is generally not an issue for top rope, especially if your gym wraps the rope around the pipe at the top of the route, as most do. In this case, clipping into a pre-tied knot with a carabiner leave a lot less space for mistakes. You’ll find which discipline you fall under more with time and you’ll split the time between roping up and bouldering as it feels natural. Begin by closing the system with a stopper knot at the end of the rope, preventing it from slipping entirely through the belay device and causing the climber to drop. Like the harder moves to me are easier than bouldering because it’s less scary mentally. Take a belay test any time the main wall is open, and you'll be able to belay everyone as you see fit. If I know there are bolts for the anchor then I dedicate those biners for it. I’ve had to basically reteach people how to belay properly that learned on a grigri without developing best practices (for any belay device) like always keeping your hand on the break strand. Both of my children, who weigh at least 100lbs less than me, can successfully belay me on top rope. My climbing gym only has 24ft top rope/autobelay walls. I’m pretty certain we had checked that they were not twisted before we started. As a community, climbers have typically impressed my by being very safety conscious and reliable about alerting Edit: Here's the video I had to re upload the video since it cut off the end for some reason And also, my belay partners and I are at the maximum recommended weight difference for the use of the ohm. First, it's good to know that the both-hands method is safe, but objectively slower. Going to use a standard grigri on my belay loop and a Petzl shunt as a backup on my leg loop (but also pas’d up to my main harness loops). So for my case, the more intuitive use of the MegaJul outweighs the tiny benefits of the GriGri. TL;DR I just started learning to belay someone on a top rope (not lead climbing) and the friction from the rope sliding through my brake hand as I choke up or slide up the rope toward the ATC is causing rope burns. Any hidden gems?? Also, are memberships not a thing? A lot of places seem to be day passes only. Man all you gotta worry about in this stage of your climbing career is doing what’s most fun and just climbing a lot. I find I can do harder grades top roping because I’m more comfortable making big moves with the rope attached, assuming my belay partner has all the slack. it's dangerous. My gym double wraps the ropes so there's more friction and it's fine, but outdoors I'm getting yanked off the ground and my hand pulled into my XTC. One of my climbing buddies belays with a grigri and I feel like the rope has a tendency to be more… “sticky” when she’s trying to pull up slack? Building an outdoor climbing wall. I like that has belay glasses on, helps me keep the shortest amount of rope out and still not short rope. In my groups I'm the one who sets anchors (I know knots and how to dress them). I’m a petite 135lb woman who realized, “wow, the friction of this rope is getting crazy hot,” [when lowering]. Check out the wren soloist. Wall times and reservations for time slots to climb at the top-rope wall are all located at https://recwell. I also like to add that if you're new to leading, which I think you said you are, it's helpful to think of the amount of falls you've taken and caught. 17K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. The best and simplist method for top rope self belay BY FAR is to tie in on one end of the top rope and thread the other end through a grigri. It's good because the black cover is an easy visual check that krab is correct and also removes any risk of the screw gate working undone. I avoid repelling and use runners to tether when belaying (TR). He just stood there looking confused and his partner piped up to explain that ‘he’s only climbed outside and we only lead so he doesn’t know how to top rope belay’. The climber, who doesn’t need to think about belaying … just climbs! The rope that connects the climber to the belayer. Apr 28, 2025 ยท Learn the safest methods for toprope belaying. Thanks for the reply. If you want to climb or belay on lead it's just assumed you're confident doing so. The routes we were on were kind of zig-zaggy. Curious if anyone knows of any decent top-rope gyms in Tokyo? I know bouldering gyms are a dime a dozen (Apparently B-Pump is the best of that lot?), but it's hard to find a place with any top ropes (let alone autobelayers). I'm about 135 lbs and some of my climbing buddies are 200 or so. Every time I'm belayed by a human, it feels like cheating. 31 votes, 61 comments. There are instructions for leading solo on a grigri online. I am thinking about starting to top rope soloing on one of my projects, and I see so many opinions on the best way to do this… A v groove tube device (ATC guide/reverso) is best for half/twin rope diameters, the brake strand drops into the high friction V groove and naturally guides the climber strand of rope on top of it. The belay point for a top rope can be either anchored to the groud or not (normally is) but for leading the belay point should not be anchored as this gives the climber a softer fall. PBUS for taking in slack on lead is just too many movements and you never want to short rope your climber because you're fiddling around with PBUS. In defence of the belay master we use it when we're clipping kids into the rope for top roping for speed. Roped climbing in any form takes more equipment- harness, rope, helmet, belay device and eventually QuickDraws and stuff to make anchors if you are going to sport or top rope outside. Learn how to belay. Anything to make it easier is enticing to me. As his climber moved up the wall. Grigri top rope solo Hey r/climbing, I'm trying to practice a route that I want to free solo (nothing crazy but long) and I'm considering buying a grigri so that I could setup a top rope and belay myself for practice. I'm not into leading yet (when I do I'll grab an Ohm), but I'm finding it hard to safely belay heavier climbers outdoors. Attach a weight to your harness. Advice for belaying top rope with weight difference / on an overhang Went for my first top rope self-belay at Great Falls VA yesterday. He needs to slow down (and try harder grades maybe?) if you're gonna be belaying that way. You can use a messenger line and a wrench to throw rope where you want it, and you can use ascenders and belay devices to hold you in. but I don't know if they're intended for regular usage. That's what my belay device did the whole time I knew it before the fatal fall and I assume that had something to do with its failure Last week while working a private, I had the pleasure of belaying a 300lb man with an atc (top rope). Solo climbing I am super new to climbing. Some people remove the little tab on the grigri and grind / sand it smooth so the grigri will orient correctly in a fall. Saftey considerations: The lever of a gri gri is on the left side of the device therefore the grigri must be on the left side of your tie-in figure 8 knot. . 9, but have been wondering lately; Should I stick with top rope, or is it better to "cross train" on bouldering problems? Bouldering makes me nervous, but I would like to do it if it would help make me a more well rounded climber. If you're new to rock climbing, this will lay the foundation for future belaying skills. But that’s kind of a weird context, most hardcore alpinists just free solo and carry a rope with them for retreating and rappelling when going solo. A grigri can fail if oriented upside down. I do always wear belay gloves, even when I’m belaying top rope in the gym, because it makes me feel more confident - if something crazy happens I can grab the rope and hopefully hang on. When a climber falls, having a solid top rope anchor is literally a matter of life and death. easy stuff and we practiced a few takes and small falls working gradually into harder stuff. OR you can use a ladder and then tie yourself in at the top. Is it possible to top or lead rope solo? Also this may sound like a dumb question but how do you top rope outside? If it's your lead rope a little bit of slack is fine (<~1'). Hi all! I’ve been climbing for 2 years now and I just started outdoor rope climbing (woohoo!). It was two 3-hour sessions, the first session we only did lead+top-rope belay just to get the moves and feeling down, the second session we actually lead-belayed and had to take some pretty large falls to know how that felt. With the G+ that can be mitigated. I also prefer two biners for the rope so that it has a larger I’m planning on top rope soloing a 50m single pitch, anchor at the top, throw my 70m rope down, rap, and then climb back up. Top Rope vs Top Belay? Pros/cons? Safety, ease of use, setup, cleaning. After stopping things right away and getting his climber to climb the few feet back to the ground I asked him what he was doing. purdue. Are there any cheaper alternatives to an auto-belay which would let me practice climb when I'm by myself? Those things cost thousands. The climber had to back over or under the belay rope to fix it. It's what makes your rope all black. Either way they shouldn't feel the rope much at all while climbing. Most of my anticipated outdoor projects this year are at least double that length. edu/ -> Climbing and Challenge Climb Lafayette Looking for more of a focused climbing experience on awesome bouldering walls? The GriGri + is a belay device best suited for very new climbers belaying on top rope. I understand the differences between top rope and lead belaying, but what are the differences for the climbing in terms of technique and physical challenges? Climb the tree by looping rope around large branches, rather than drilling. There are many ways to set up a top … Bomber multidirectional anchor at the bottom of a pitch, feed rope out and place gear as you climb, rappel down to clean and ascend the fixed rope. When you're using a carabiner, whether that be to belay another, rappel, or clip into an auto-belay you don't have to worry about friction between the metal and your harness, so it is appropriate to clip into your belay loop; that's why it's there. Saw this and it seemed like a generally safe practice? Much better than lead rope soloing. I belay with a Jul and I’m surprised by the fact that more people don’t belay with them, as they feel much more like an ATC (the device I learned to belay with) and are simpler overall. Top rope belay typically is not a problem with larger weight differences, lead climbing is another story. Worse than a grigri as a progress capture for ascending a fixed line or as a grillion. For now, feel out what you like! I would say you should definitely be very comfortable with all aspects of belaying top rope before doing lead, as lead belaying is much more complex, but you definitely do not need to know everything about climbing technique before taking the plunge. God damn it was so much fun. com I noticed recently that my partner's technique has shifted, and now he will pull the rope through with one hand on the top rope, and the other pulling on the brake rope. I like to use the Edelrid biners with stainless inserts for top roping when I can. xvdiiol wmlt alqqml ghmx bbxtvin opcircb avtmgna rvk vxl oxlv
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