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A4 climbing reddit c), he was climbing lightly on ropes within three months and then bouldering hard again within six. The home of Climbing on reddit. if anyone has any rehab recommendations that’d be appreciated! OK, so I've been climbing (pretty much only bouldering) for one year now and about one and a half months ago I touched the moonboard (40°, 2016 Setup) for the first time and i loved it. Normally my climbing sessions are structured so I take good rest within a session. . My PT gave me a rehab protocol that is fairly similar to the one you linked, except I was using a three-finger drag on a smaller edge, which prevented putting pressure on the A4 pulley. For context I have been climbing for just over 2 years. looking for any advice on pulley injuries i’ve never dealt with one. Half crimp and full crimp grips will strain your pulley so avoid trying hard in those grip types. 10a (minimal bouldering though) using open hand grip almost exclusively. Feb 18, 2025 · For several months it hurt during even day to day use, and I did relatively little climbing. Motivation: In this post I will detail my journey to understanding finger injuries, testing out various methods and my conclusions on what method works best for rehabilitation. We will go deep into understanding pain science and how to USE that knowledge to rehab our injuries. 10, even with very careful taping. The most common injuries for climbers in the gym is the dreaded closed pulley sprain/rupture. was climbing hard all weekend and this happened during a late evening sesh. Ort custom pulley system and/or the NiceClimbs Pulley Pal products and can lend some insight into which they recommend. You can get a whole sheet of the thermoplastic splinting material for pretty cheap. We all thought he broke a hold off the wall I have been rehabbing a torn A4 pulley for the last three months. my finger is currently not swollen and has pretty full range of motion, just dull pain when making a fist, crimping, etc. I am considering getting a pulley splint and was wondering if anyone has experience with the S. May 2, 2022 · I sprained my A4 pulley on my ring finger about a month ago and the healing process is working, but slowly. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. I had a friend who rehabbed really hard(hot-cold baths 3x a day, massage, e. Sep 14, 2020 · We’re going to find out how to FINALLY fix that lingering hand or finger injury you got months ago from climbing that “just won’t heal”. But shortly after, my left ringfinger started hurting in the A4 region. if anyone has any rehab recommendations that’d be appreciated! Depends. Depends. And yes we are scared of falling. P. Preventing injuries is key to pushing the grades. 1. Before we get started: Stats: Male, 29 years old, climbing for 7 years, height 5’7’’, weight 137 lbs. I was able to rehab hang boarding and easy top rope climbing at 5. The rare times I did half or full crimp did not hurt either since I was already warmed up. Jun 7, 2021 · Nearly all climbers will be injured during their climbing careers, it’s just a matter of when and how. YOUR NOT A DOCTOR! The A2 and A4 are the major pulleys of the system (inserting directly to the bone) and are most prone to injury. t. I could do most 6b+/V4s in a few tries and got psyched. not that gruesome just watch with sound on lol. Eventually it felt better for day to day and even easy climbing, but it took a lot longer to feel stable (not even good) climbing moderate grades like 5. Not sure it was an A4 but the pop was just as loud the video, he couldn't make a fist for the first month. You can make your own pretty easily though. I am at a stage of my climbing (V5-6 level) where my finger strength is really holding me back, so have been following a training plan to improve this. The A1, A3, and A5 pulleys are more flexible and attach to the volar plate, a ligament that connects two phalanges together. 8 - 5. It allowed me to do easy to moderate climbing on an a2 pulley injury with hardly any pain. Climbing with an open hand should strain pulleys less - you may find that you can try pretty hard with a three finger drag as the pulley isn't actually engaged at all when your finger is mostly straight. dumzit seuk qvzex tzc vukl svctt shchg zijkpq uypzu rsao |
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