Dmm offset nuts review reddit. yosemite) then they are nice i think.

Dmm offset nuts review reddit If you were to get these nuts, I’d recommend complimenting them with a set of offset nuts. Even at Verti Call I sell maybe 15 DMM Alloy Offset for 1 WC Superlight Offset which is clearly Offset nuts are considered more of a supplement, whereas standard ones are just that: standard. See full list on outdoorgearlab. BD hasn't really come up with any innovation for years, I bet they just go to the same factory that makes nuts and slap their logo on them. So I'm seeking potential burner nuts or replacement for the Trango Jun 15, 2012 · Obviously anodising the nut looks prettier but this is hardly the point of climbing gear! This rather personal gripe aside I’d recommend a set of offsets to any serious trad climber looking to compliment their main set of. I hung out with a professional guide in JTree for a bit who only had offsets for his climbing there, since the majority of cracks are flaring, water-made cracks. Moved Permanently. Title says it really. Oct 31, 2024 · Most offset climbing nuts, like the DMM Alloy Offset, the DMM Peenut, and the Black Diamond Offset don't do as well in more parallel-sided cracks, but that's okay as most people are more likely to place a cam in these places anyway. I have a friend who climbs in JTree a lot, and he swears to them so presumably there is a geological feature there that eats them as well. You can get a confidence inspiring amount of surface contact in a lot of semi flaring placements that are common to that kind of climbing. DMM offsets are popular, though I prefer a the Wild Country Superlight Offset Rocks paired with the Superlight half nuts (non-offset) sets. The only route I can remember being happy to have offset nuts at the gunks was Fly Again for the section right off the ledge. May 16, 2016 · Question using offset nuts I got a pro set of BD stoppers for a gift, I've used them for a little bit, they're fine. You get to double up on the middle sizes, they’re not as aggressively offset so they still work well in normal placements, and they’re significantly lighter. The wires they are mounted on are set into a recess to reduce wear, while larger sizes have holes that reduce weight. Skip the BD stoppers, also ‘meh’. I think having a nut rack combined of these two would be perfect for the budding trad climber. Every size of Alloy Offset has a robust 12kN strength rating. 5 and 0. Granite cracks love Dmm offsets. The document has moved here. Offset cams are nice for flaring pin scars-- if you climb places where this is common (e. Has anyone had a chance to try out the new BD Offset Stoppers? How do they compare to the DMM ones. Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. A more experienced friend recommended substituting them with the DMM alloy offsets #7-11 combined with the DMM peenuts #1-5. Those nuts are old school but climbers did not know the WC Superlight so they still gave their fate on the DMM Alloy Offset. Mostly though, look at what you'll be climbing. And I really love them nuts. Irregular is better. In situations were you have a slightly flaring crack, you can just place a nut lengthwise. 75. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for compre. All for sides of the head are square, no curve face to make 3 contacts with the rock. com Jan 4, 2019 · DMM because BD just got into the offset nuts game to just take a slice of the market but just added a biner to undercut the price. Small meaning Black diamond 1-4 stoppers or DMM micro wallnuts. One of my trad friends says his BD #1 stopper is his most useful one. Purchase the DMM Offset Nuts Jun 4, 2025 · The red stopper is compared to the nut head of an offset nut. The smaller sizes of the standard set, gold -red, find a lot of use. They are weaker than brassies but a different shape. Totems in their smaller sizes are great as well. The DMM Brass Offsets are consistently some of the best performing nuts in small flares and cracks. I also run DMM offsets, I feel okay about them. If it is inward and upward flaring, you can use any kind of nut, but an offset might be a safer bet because it can be set in place to prevent it from moving. yosemite) then they are nice i think. 4-4 random rigid stem cams from Facebook old nuts sport draws nylon runners, 60cm, with any carabiners Pins were usually pounded in with that same degree of upward tilt, so the scars give placements that result in the optimum pull direction for your offset nuts. 3 and up, and really really love the 0. Offset models are also generally harder to clean because they are asymmetric - they don't want to rotate upwards Jan 6, 2020 · Cams just don't tend to fit as well in smaller pin scars and flares, and thus a nut is required. I do like the Camalots larger than#1 though I'm running old Tango "made by Hudy Sports" nuts, and I recently realized that they are actually offset in one plane and parallel in another plane. DMM offset nuts and peenuts - I can’t even remember the last time I racked up with a regular nut set I love the Z4s a ton, especially in 0. I want to get a new set of nuts and have really like the DMM Offset nuts but the BD ones look just the same with the benefit of the color coding matching the standard BD ones. DMM Offset Nuts DMM Wallnuts WC Helium 10cm Draws x6 Mammut UL dyneema slings, 60cm, x6, w/ wiregate carabiners NAH BRO. In situations that are too flaring for that, just look for another spot or keep going. Black Diamond C4 cams, used from Mountain Project, 0. Aug 9, 2020 · Those nuts has not changed for years. All offset models certainly do better in these types of fissures, including the DMM Brass Offset, along with the DMM Alloy Offset and DMM Peenut. I am a big fan of the DMM alloy offsets, but there are BD offset stoppers as well. I have small offset nuts but what do people think about normal small nuts. g. bdas lqdwpyjn viootc xriqzqx tpkgee getku vpvvqw listouw bfuart mbyr